[EAA Indians]

Dr. TJT, could you please contribute your early breeding preparation practices. There are many posts on stag breeding but my purpose is the "preparation" for early breeding. If one would plan to breed around September or October, or to have the first hatch no later than December- what preparations do you implement before the first month of breeding. Here are several pre breeding practices.
- de worm, de louse
- feed with high protein layer feeds
- give breeding vitamins like ADE to the broodfowls 1 month before and through out the breeding season.
- put basket/nests in their pens, as suggestions for setting on eggs. If sorrogate setters are being used, they should also be fed and provided with basket/nests one month prior to breeding.
- provide extra light to extend daylight.

There are many advantages in early hatching. To me, its more of having 3 to 5 month old stronger grown stags and pullets by April and May to survive the hot and rainy season. Early hatching saves on vitamins and anti biotic to combat bad weather.

Thank you-Ed
__________________

[tjtcokngacademy]

Much has been said about early breeding but let me add a few pointers:

• Preparation starts when they are about to moult. Lower the protein content of their feed once they start moulting and this is between the months of May & June. Withhold any vitamins, medicines and water additives until they are almost 70% done with their moulting. This would make their moulting faster and more uniform.
• When the moult is almost 75% done, that is the time to give straight breeder pellets so that you would no longer shift to another mixture once they start to lay because when you suddenly change their feed, this would disrupt their laying for more than a month. Hence, laying is delayed.
  

• Weather plays an important role. When the climate is hot and the temperature is stable the hens have the tendency to lay early. Extreme changes in the weather condition can disrupt their capability to lay.

• Extending daylight can stimulate laying.

• The positioning of the breeding pen is another factor to consider and this is applicable to movable pens. When they don’t lay in a particular area, transfer them to a place where they have some privacy. If given the freedom, they would look for a place that is comfortable and secured. If provided... they would be more prolific and their breeding instincts enhanced.

• Some breeders I know give "Whiskas Cat food" to stimulate them to lay because of the "Taurine" content in the cat food.

• Sometimes feeding them once a day is advantageous because instead of directing energy into their digestive system, the energy is diverted and concentrated in their reproductive system. Thus, they will lay more eggs.

[jaro J]

Doc,
what would be the best way to lower the Crude Protein of your brood hens' feed if they're only fed Successor breeding pellets w/ a bit of duck layer? So far, our hens are laying pretty good w/ this type of feed only. And, most of our broodhens are not moulting yet. This concerns me that they might start moulting sometime during the breeding season. By the way, the CP% of our brood hens' feed is almost 20%. tnx

[EAA Indians]

Doc TJT, thank you for your fast reply/posting. My concern when the vitamins are decrease during the molting period, does the immune system also decreases and the birds are more susceptible to diseases? Out problem during the hot, humid and rainy season (May-August) and during the molting season, the death rate goes up even if we keep feeding extra vitamins and extra anti biotic and all these extras also increases the expenses . How do you overcome this problem?

What I really would like to achieve is to have two settings once or twice and no later than January, and by the time May comes around, with the start of the hot, humid and rainy season starts, the chicks are grown (around 4 to 6 months old and big enough to survive the extremely bad weather). And, we can focus on raising the current year production and prepare the stags and cocks for the upcoming shows.

Thanks-Ed

[tjtcokngacademy]

In your case, since they are still laying and haven't started to moult, you will not be able to prepare them for early breeding. You can force moult them by abruptly lowering the protein level of their feed. The best way to lower the CP of your broodhen's feed is to add grains like corn (12% CP), rice (10%CP), oat groats (10-11%CP), or jockey oats (10-12%CP) to the Successor pellets. This would definitely stop them from laying and would initiate their moulting process.
Please take note that I have recommended giving grains because we would want them to stop laying.

[jaro J]

tanx doc. i'll just follow what my kumpare learned from your academy. i'll just give my broodhens the same formula as you indicated for my 7 months & up feeds.
tnx again.

[tjtcokngacademy]

EAA INDIANS
It has been observed that Matured Hens are more sturdier in terms of health compared to cocks, stags and young birds. Presuming that breeding season is over, putting your hens back to the range, would make them recover faster.
I only do a "monthly bacterial flushing" on them {one day only}...to prevent them from getting sick. You can add at least 20% grains to their diet only during the first few months.

There are certain parts of the country that experince a delay in their breeding program, because of the unusual weather pattern (El Nino phenomenon). This would really affect their breeding performance. One way to deal with this problem is to use off-season pullets.

Have you ever noticed that hens that were kept and bred in the city, would lay their eggs earlier....... compared to their full sisters that was kept in the farm.

[EAA Indians]

Doc TJT, much obliged on your contribution to our beloved sport. Please keep posting your Academy Schedule so that I can schedule my staff and myself too (balikbayan) and get the complete program.

Doc, I was wondering if the idea came to your mind and invite Mike Ratcliff to put a weekend seminar? Mike Ratcliff had announced his retirement from his Conditioning Training School and could be available?

thanks-ed

[carlpoten]

hi doc,

in your book thus it include points in breeding as well or just the conditioning?

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

Much has been said about early breeding but let me add a few pointers:

• Preparation starts when they are about to moult. Lower the protein content of their feed once they start moulting and this is between the months of May & June. Withhold any vitamins, medicines and water additives until they are almost 70% done with their moulting. This would make their moulting faster and more uniform.
• When the moult is almost 75% done, that is the time to give straight breeder pellets so that you would no longer shift to another mixture once they start to lay because when you suddenly change their feed, this would disrupt their laying for more than a month. Hence, laying is delayed.
  

• Weather plays an important role. When the climate is hot and the temperature is stable the hens have the tendency to lay early. Extreme changes in the weather condition can disrupt their capability to lay.

• Extending daylight can stimulate laying.

• The positioning of the breeding pen is another factor to consider and this is applicable to movable pens. When they don’t lay in a particular area, transfer them to a place where they have some privacy. If given the freedom, they would look for a place that is comfortable and secured. If provided... they would be more prolific and their breeding instincts enhanced.

• Some breeders I know give "Whiskas Cat food" to stimulate them to lay because of the "Taurine" content in the cat food.

• Sometimes feeding them once a day is advantageous because instead of directing energy into their digestive system, the energy is diverted and concentrated in their reproductive system. Thus, they will lay more eggs.

[AnakNiPepe]

please reserve a copy for me doc i'll buy one i'll just drop by your house in talayan

[tjtcokngacademy]

Sure thing !!... my Anak.

[Raptor]

Thanks for the great info Doc!

[chikndave]

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

Much has been said about early breeding but let me add a few pointers:

• Preparation starts when they are about to moult. Lower the protein content of their feed once they start moulting and this is between the months of May & June. Withhold any vitamins, medicines and water additives until they are almost 70% done with their moulting. This would make their moulting faster and more uniform.
• When the moult is almost 75% done, that is the time to give straight breeder pellets so that you would no longer shift to another mixture once they start to lay because when you suddenly change their feed, this would disrupt their laying for more than a month. Hence, laying is delayed.

May and June??? Where yall are?? my birds have never started the moult before Aug. at the very earliest.

[chikndave]

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

Much has been said about early breeding but let me add a few pointers:

• Preparation starts when they are about to moult. Lower the protein content of their feed once they start moulting and this is between the months of May & June. Withhold any vitamins, medicines and water additives until they are almost 70% done with their moulting. This would make their moulting faster and more uniform.
• When the moult is almost 75% done, that is the time to give straight breeder pellets so that you would no longer shift to another mixture once they start to lay because when you suddenly change their feed, this would disrupt their laying for more than a month. Hence, laying is delayed.

May and June??? Where yall are?? my birds have never started the moult before Aug. at the very earliest./

[chikndave]

oops i did that two times. sorry all

[dreambhoy]

doc, good day po sau. paano po b ang pagbigay ng whiskas cat food, gaano karami at gaano kadalas? kahit b umiitlog na eh kelangan tuloy pb ang pgbigay nito? more power po sau!

[tjtcokngacademy]

I give 3-5 pieces of Whiskas each hen....twice a week.

[jaro J]

doc,
would like to know the best thing to do w/ our breeding problem. To begin with, our regular feeds on our broodhen is mostly successor pellets w/ a little of duck layer pellets mixed together w/o grains. I know you recommended to feed just successor only, according to my kumpare who attended your class. Then, when they started moulting we mixed grains w/ their regular feeds by 50%. As they started to grow new feathers (bout 50% done), we started giving them their regular feeds w/c are all pellets only to increase their protein level. And now, the problems is that none of the 4 hens in our broodpen are not laying at all. Its been a month since we started the breeding process and no eggs yet. Although, the broodcock has been aggressive enough to top them. And, the broodcock that is in the broodpen was a good producer last year. My assumption bout this problem is probably because of the feeds was changed during the moult and that they're adjusting w/ their regular feed. Was wondering if there's anything else you might want to recommend to speed-up they're laying process, except for giving them extra lights w/c i've already done aswell.

[tjtcokngacademy]

Let's analyze what went wrong with your system.
First of all, feel your hens. They usually gain weight after the moult and as they get older. Remember that fat hens don't lay!

Another factor that may have caused this problem is the fact that you changed their feed only a month before. I suggest that you stick with the straight pellet feeding but cut down their daily ration into half or you can practice a once a day feeding. This would lessen the energy wasted in their digestion process and instead direct all energy needed for their reproductive system to work.

Your broodcock, being a good producer, has nothing to do with the problem. Please take note that there is a difference between being raped and when the hen allows herself to be mounted. Once she freely allows the broodcock to mate her, then I'm sure she will start laying within a few weeks.

One problem that is beyond our control is the fluctuation in the climate and weather conditions. If it has been raining a lot in your area, then this might be one possible cause of the delay in their egg laying.

[jaro J]

Many thanks doc. Just wanted to say your academy has been a great help w/ our system. And the fee the I paid for was worth every single dime. I will go ahead and ask if the pullets and hens are fat, and will follow your instruction if it is. And last, if I would to stop breeding in march or april, what would be the best way in preparing all the breeding stocks for next breeding season. I'd like to have them moult as early as possible so that i could start the mating in october. And, what's the amount of grains that I need to mix w/ their feed once the hens start moulting to decrease their protein level.

[jaro J]

bump.............................................. .....................................

[erwinrabon]

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

In your case, since they are still laying and haven't started to moult, you will not be able to prepare them for early breeding. You can force moult them by abruptly lowering the protein level of their feed. The best way to lower the CP of your broodhen's feed is to add grains like corn (12% CP), rice (10%CP), oat groats (10-11%CP), or jockey oats (10-12%CP) to the Successor pellets. This would definitely stop them from laying and would initiate their moulting process.
Please take note that I have recommended giving grains because we would want them to stop laying.

Doc TJT,

Our hens are laying eggs now but we're not ready till the end of November... How much grains shall we add to the Successor feeds that we are using? Thanks Doc...

[tobruk]

Doc TJT,

good day sir!

any news or progress regarding the CD on Breeding ?

can you pls. let me know once it is available I am really waiting for it so we can improved our breeding program

more power....

[tobruk]

mukhang busy na si Doc malapit na kasi ang seminar
good luck sa mga participants........
sabi nila sulit na sulit daw ang pag attend dito..

keep on cocking.......

[erwinrabon]

Up ko lang!!!!!!!!!!!

[tjtcokngacademy]

To disrupt their laying, since you're not yet ready to beed them, you can abruptly increase their grain proportion to 50%.

Dipping them in a pail of water for 3 consecutive days to alter their body temperature can definitely disrupt them from laying.

[AnakNiPepe]

doc if its the other way around how can i push my hen to continue its laying? because my hens stop laying after sometime that they have given off around 10 eggs each. they are not that old 18 months. i have given them the same feeding and put an artificial light to stimulate their laying.

[tjtcokngacademy]

Anak ni Pepe

The sudden change in our weather (cold winds) these past few weeks is the main reason why most of our hens suddenly stopped laying & we just have to be patient about this because after they have adjusted to this kind of weather.....normal egg production will be restored.

I suggest that you cut their daily feed ration into half.
The reason for this is to lessen the energy being wasted for digestion and instead...divert all the much needed energy for their reproductive system to function to it's fullest.

[Meron Wla]

My Bro in Law say our Hens very small quantity of egg production.

I read somewhere to use "ADE" (I think it was).
Do you know this product. OR is there another product OR
Is it best to just wait until wind and rain drops?
Salamat....

[arajap]

HAPPY NEW YEAR SIR TJT, I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE YEAR ROUND SCHEDULE OF YOUR SCHOOLING FOR THE YEAR 2008,AT PRESENT AM HERE IN JAPAN ,BEEN HERE FOR 16 YRS. AND PLANNING TO BE HOME NEXT YEAR TO START MY BREEDING PROGRAMS AND IT IS YOU SIR THAT CONVINCE ME...HAVING READ YOUR COMMENTS AND ADVICES IN THIS THREAD. THXZ>>>ARAJAP