My peeps are either not hatching or when they do hatch they die shortly after. The peeps that are not hatching are whole peeps when I crack them open a week after they are supposed to hatch. Does nayone know why this is happening?

[CrookedToe]

(PEEPS) is that CHICKS?

Yes

[tigershark]

Originally Posted by t8562005

Yes

This is related topic from the other thread. Sorry but can't translate this in to english hehehehe...

Re: bakit namamatay ang sisiw sa itlog

Dear friends,
Although, I'm a new comer in this site,let me give you some hints kung paano maiiwasan mamatay ang sisiw sa loob ng itlog. ito'y sa akin lang naman. may incubator din ako dito na gawa ko lang din. Ang ginagawa ko'y isinasawsaw ko yun itlog for 1 to 2 second sa maligamgam na tubig o katulad ng temperature ng incubator yun init ng tubig,ginagawa ko ito on the 18th day o yun tinatawag natin hatching period then ibabalik ko uli sa hatching area ng incubator at di na bubuksan pa untill magpisaan na ang mga itlog. Subok ko na rin ito. Thanks.
Ninoy

[tigershark]

Re: bakit namamatay ang sisiw sa itlog

Dear Sir,
Pag nag chip-out na kasi yun sisiw,papasok na kasi yun hangin sa loob ng itlog at mag uumpisa ng tumigas yun white membrane ng itlog. Most of those breeders forgot to replenish the water pan that resulted to moisture drop down and it will be too late..di na makakalabas yun sisiw sa itlog at tuluyan ng mamamatay. By dipping the egg( not your balls!! he!he!he!) for a couple of seconds to a warm water will surely make the white membrane elastic and easy for our chicks to come out in the open. Just greet those chicks "WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF VIRUS AND BACTERIA".
thanks.

[apong_ambo]

Check your incubator hygrometer/thermometer, there might be insconsistency with the temperature that's causing prematurity or damage to your eggs.

Just my two cents

Originally Posted by t8562005

My peeps are either not hatching or when they do hatch they die shortly after. The peeps that are not hatching are whole peeps when I crack them open a week after they are supposed to hatch. Does nayone know why this is happening?

[irenea]

Good Day! Doc Teddy would like to apologize for not having replied to your queries because aside from upgrading his computer, he is currently in Tagaytay for the scheduled seminar. He wants you to continue posting your ideas & questions in this thread and he promises to reply to them as soon as he gets back.
Incidentally, the next academy schedule is on June 7, 8 & 9. Kindly make your reservations as soon as possible by texting/calling 09178730204/09209506492.
Thank you.

[tjtcokngacademy]

t8562005
Since all the eggs have an embryo in them,we have a hatchability and not a fertility problem. When the embryo dies during incubation, it is usually a nutritional deficiency. Provide a hi-protein diet before you start your breeding season.
WHISKA'S cat food is the best supplement since it contains "taurine" which is important during breeding.
Provide B-complex shot on a twice a week basis and administer Vit. ADE injectable twice a week for 2 months.
Lastly, Apong Ambo is right about checking the right temperature and humidity reading inside your incubator. I usually use 2-3 thermometers inside the incubator to be sure that you get the right reading because these instruments don't last long.

[TIMEX]

Try this web site !!!! its for kids but very informative.

http://pa4h.poultry.psu.edu/Embryolo...mbry%20Dev.pdf

[apong_ambo]

Doc Ted

Which Whiska's catfood do you suggess sir? The Wet Food (Canned) or the Dry Food (In bags)? And what is the % of the catfood do we add to the hens total feed? And should this supplement be added throughout the breeding season? Sorry sir too many questions

Thanks again

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

t8562005
Since all the eggs have an embryo in them,we have a hatchability and not a fertility problem. When the embryo dies during incubation, it is usually a nutritional deficiency. Provide a hi-protein diet before you start your breeding season.
WHISKA'S cat food is the best supplement since it contains "taurine" which is important during breeding.
Provide B-complex shot on a twice a week basis and administer Vit. ADE injectable twice a week for 2 months.
Lastly, Apong Ambo is right about checking the right temperature and humidity reading inside your incubator. I usually use 2-3 thermometers inside the incubator to be sure that you get the right reading because these instruments don't last long.

[tigershark]

up

[ManiX]

up up up and waiting

They are already on a high protein diet. They are getting the same food i gave them for the last 12 years and i have had a 90% hatch rate and now they are not hatching in an incubator and when they have a hen sitting on them.

[ACAngnqbtr]

CHICKS FULLY FORMED BUT DEAD WITHOUT PIPPING:

Probable Cause:
- Low humidity in incubator
- Too high temperature in hatcher
- Lack of ventilation in hatcher
- Microbial Comtamination
- Breeder Flock Nutrition
- Thin shell

Suggested Corrective Measure:
- Incubation Temperature should be homogeneous - same at any point inside the
incubator and maintained all throughout the incubation process
- Incubation Temperature should be maintained at 99.5 F (range from 99 F-100 F; 98 F
to 101 F but not over a long period of time) for forced-air incubators or with blower
fan; still air incubators (no blower fan) tamperature should be maintained at 102 F
- Humidity for incubator: 55% - 60% or a wetbulb reading of 85 F to 87 F.
- Temperature inside the hatcher should be 98 F
- Humidity inside the hatcher should be 70% - 85% or a wetbulb rading of 90 F - 94 F.
- Gather eggs right after laying or several times a day to prevent microbial conta
mination
- Store eggs in cooler place not more than 7 days before setting
- Sanitize incubator and hatcher right after every hatch
- Sanitize eggs before setting in the incubator
- Proper breederfowl nutrition, correct levels of required vitamins and minerals Vits A&E

It is very important that the incubator has good heatholding capacity.
If all above listed recommendations are followed, there is no reason that your eggs will not hatch. IMPORTANT: Do not help the chicks from the shell during hatching time. Kapag ang sisiw ay hindi kayang sipain ang sariling shell, wala rin itong kakayahan sumipa sa kalaban sa rueda later on. Remember, incubation is the process that determines the quality and vitality of day-old chicks that ULTIMATELY determines the technical performance of your fighting cocks.

[desert]

[desert]

[ACAngnqbtr]

Hi doc teddy, a was just so anxious to impart the technolgy we have at tjt. basta inquiries on incubation and hatchery mgt, we will be most willing to be of help, baka sakaling makatulong.


KA SABONGS:

please look for my posts at the Chickken Talk, i will be posting a series of articles on incubation operation and hathcery management

[apong_ambo]

Mang Boy

Maraming salamat sa mga tips
Mabuhay po kayo !!!

[tjtcokngacademy]

apong ambo
I use the pelletized Whiskas Cat Food but i soak it for 10 minutes before feeding.
Acangqbatr
Great info. Keep em coming.

[apong_ambo]

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

apong ambo
I use the pelletized Whiskas Cat Food but i soak it for 10 minutes before feeding.
Acangqbatr
Great info. Keep em coming.

Thanks Doc Ted, I will try this next breeding season

[DNA-Farm]

TJT,
How many cc per shot of B-complex and Vit. ADE?
When do we start the B-complex and the Vit. ADE?
Do we give B-complex and Vit. ADE to both Broodcock and Broodhen the same dose?
Thanks,
DNA

Originally Posted by tjtcokngacademy

t8562005
Since all the eggs have an embryo in them,we have a hatchability and not a fertility problem. When the embryo dies during incubation, it is usually a nutritional deficiency. Provide a hi-protein diet before you start your breeding season.
WHISKA'S cat food is the best supplement since it contains "taurine" which is important during breeding.
Provide B-complex shot on a twice a week basis and administer Vit. ADE injectable twice a week for 2 months.
Lastly, Apong Ambo is right about checking the right temperature and humidity reading inside your incubator. I usually use 2-3 thermometers inside the incubator to be sure that you get the right reading because these instruments don't last long.